Grub Spy: On the Dough


It’s not a new approach though. For example, the Nike and Apple symbols are so familiar that we don’t even need to see their names. And what about the giant M in McDonald’s or the yellow and green arrows in Subway? It seems that if you want to pack a punch for the long haul, keeping it clean and simple is a proven method.

{…} AndChips Unit 3 Castle House, Davitts Quay, Dungarvan, Co Waterford Five stars Food: €23.50; Drinks: €10

I guess that’s what owner Eunice Power was thinking when she decided to use an ellipsis inside a pair of braces {…} as part of her business name.

Besides being unique and forward-looking, chippers (in my opinion) should retain a touch of nostalgia. Think gleaming white tiles, stainless steel warming cabinets, and a plastic menu board filled with a myriad of fried delicacies.

And don’t we all have a favorite chippy? My new favorite is definitely {…} AndChips in Dungarvan. Not just because of its name and understated, cool retro vibe, or the long line of hungry locals and vacationers patiently waiting for their dose of chippy while there are plenty of other outlets among which Choose. There is also the food.

Everything on the menu looks tempting and everything smells good: haddock, ling, cod, fish tacos, fish burgers and langoustines. We go for haddock and langoustines with a shovel full of fries.

First, I have to mention the homemade tartar sauce and pea puree – the best and tastiest ever, and I mean ever. My haddock fillet is firm-fleshed, flaky white and swaddled in a super crispy batter. Tossed with salt and black pepper and a squeeze of lemon, it’s unsurprisingly delicious and will never go out of style.

Imagine large, juicy shrimp coated in seasoned breadcrumbs, then cooked to perfection. That’s exactly what you get with langoustines here – and that’s before we get to the awesome fries.

Everyone is different, but I’m usually stuck grazing the chips right away. This means that I am quickly half full and therefore take time to devour my fish.

There’s a wall counter and a few seats here (which we luckily manage to grab) and with a few glasses of chilled Sandenel pinot grigio we enjoy an utterly unstoppable seaside feast.

I must also give credit to the friendliest staff and the smooth military maneuvers that take place in a busy open kitchen. There seem to be as many phone order pick-ups as there are internal services, all expertly handled without a grumpy face or a single angry voice. It’s not just the food they get.

It’s another scorching evening and we head back to our hotel. A gentle sea breeze blows over the town, and the cheerful banter of happy diners and drinkers is proof of the wonderful time everyone is having. We didn’t spend a fortune in Dungarvan, we didn’t have to. So for all the right reasons, our {…} AndChips experience will live long in the memory banks of our restaurants.


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